The 'Elizabethan' look

Tudor Cosmetics 

The ideal look for women in the 16th century women was an extremely white complexion with bright pink cheeks and red lips. The pale skin was used to represent the wealth of the woman, the paler you were the richer you were, this was due to poorer women working outside in the sun and therefore becoming tanned.

To achieve the pale complexion, Elizabethan women used a number of ingredients mixed together including vinegar, white poppy seeds, egg whites, alum, white lead and borax. Unfortunately a number of the ingredients in this concoction were poisonous to the skin and eventually the skin would become grey and haggard from the bleach in the makeup, irritating the skin and resulting in rashes. Despite this, the ingredients used to make the cheeks and lips pink/red was harmless to the skin or body as they used products such as egg whites, milk from figs, vermillion and crushed beetles to make a substance cochineal. Some of these ingredients are still used today.

As well as trying to be as pale as possible it was not uncommon for the wealthy women of the Elizabethan era (including Elizabeth herself) to paint blue veins on their necks, chests and hands to make their skin appear almost translucent.

However it was not only the complexion of the skin that the tudor women worried about. It was well known that Queen Elizabeth I was a very intelligent young lady and many women did all they could to be exactly like her. This resulted in many shaving their hairline back as Elizabeth had a large forehead and this was deemed to represent intelligence. In addition to this many took to dying their hair strawberry blonde, however just like the ingredients in the white makeup substances such as saffron, cured seed oil and urine were not beneficial to the hair and due to the frequency that the Elizabethan women used this treatment on  their hair they began to suffer loss of hair. As a result of this wigs and hairpieces became much more fashionable and enabled Elizabeth to indulge in over 80 different hairstyles.

http://www.rmg.co.uk/queens-house/history/fact-files/beauty-in-the-17th-century

A Deadly Fashion: Beauty and Cosmetics 1550-1950 (Author - Sarah-Jane Downing)

Elizabeth (1997) Cate Blanchett

The 1997 film of Elizabeth starring Cate Blanchett, portrays Elizabeths coronation onto the throne and the struggles she faced against her in her early years on the throne. British Makeup designer for the movie, Jenny Shire was awarded best makeup award for her astounding show of skills whilst working on the film characters. Throughout the film Queen Elizabeths transformation is evident, beginning the film as a fresh faced young girl, with a slightly flushed skin and light flowing hair, Elizabeth appears pure and naturally beautiful. However throughout even the early years of her time on the throne Elizabeth's hair gradually becomes darker and she slowly begins to get paler. This represents how damaging the cosmetics were even just a short number of years.

Fire over England (1937) Dame Flora Robson 

The 1937 film Fire Over England was set whilst Elizabeth was on the throne and as she tries to finally overcome  England's feud with the Spanish Armada. The film begins with Elizabeth already reigning therefore her hair is braided up throughout the film, sporting a number of expensive hair accessories. 

It is believed that Flora Robson had to wear a false nose for her role as Elizabeth in this film however the make up artist is unknown, it does however, state Renee Hulbert as responsible for the special effects in the film.

The Virgin Queen (1955) Betty Davis 

The makeup artist for the 1955 film 'The Virgin Queen' was Per West who had previously created the look of Elizabeth on Flora Robson in Sea Hawk (1940). This film starred Betty Davis playing the role of Queen Elizabeth I and her intense relationship with Sir Walter Raleigh. Betty Davis who plays Elizabeth is already reigning the thrown in the film and therefore the makeup is already that intense pale complexion along with the rosy checks and red lips. However in order to play a convincing role, Betty had the front of her hair line shaved in order to increase the size of her forehead (due to high foreheads being seen as a sign of intelligence in elizabethan times). In the film there is a scene where Elizabeth has she no makeup on and no wig -  her skin looks aged and without the wigs her hair is fine and fallen out, portraying how much of an effect the cosmetics she is using is affecting her and how she eventually wound up looking haggard and a distant relation to the young, fresh-faced Elizabeth that first took the throne at 25 years old. 

 The Virgin Queen (2005 BBC Series) Anne Marie duff 

The Virgin Queen had a large team made up of both hair and makeup artists in order to achieve the ageing look of Elizabeth throughout the series. Sophie Burnage, Laura Schiavo, Caroline Greenough and Karen Hartly were all responsible for the makeup which was designed by Maureen McKellen. Their were various other professionals involved, all with a assigned a key role within the series. For example, Neill Gorton was responsible for the special effects, such as the prosthetics used to make Elizabeths skin age, however Chris Lions was solely responsible for the special effects teeth. 
Anne Marie duffs role as Queen Elizabeth I changes throughout the series, beginning with fair and natural makeup in the first episode tot the huge transformation Elizabeth undergoes when she catches small pox that leaves her skin scarred in Episode 3. The final episode shows Elizabeths haggard skin from her diseases and burns from the makeup but also her deep red hair that was once lighter and flowing. 

Elizabeth R (1971 TV Series) Glenda Jackson

Makeup artists Dawn Ascot and Sandra Shepard were responsible for Glenda Jacksons role as Queen Elizabeth I in the 1971 series 'Elizabeth R'. Overall this series captured Elizabeths life from before she was crowned and throughout her years as a reigning monarch. Like many of the films and series that portray Elizabeths life, Glenda begins the series with a much more youthful appearance than the one the series finishes with. By the end of the series her image ha changed drastically to become an old, withdrawn and damaged face.

Shakespeare in Love (1998) Judi Dench

Judi Dench's role as Queen Elizabeth I in 'Shakespeare in Love' contained the typical Elizabeth image of a pasty white face with rosy lips and cheeks, as well as a variety of wigs just as the queen had, that harboured many different styles and accessories. Both the hair and makeup designed by Lisa Westcott, with Veronica Brebner acting as the senior hair and makeup artist. However in order to fulfil the role to its true potential, Judi Dench did shave back her hairline in order to increase the size of her forehead, depicting the Elizabethan ideals that the larger the forehead the more intelligent the person was.

http://www.imdb.com
http://youtube.com

The Westmores

The Westmore family have had four generations serve as make up artists in Hollywood.  The first, George Westmore, worked as a wigmaker, developing the first film make up department in 1917 at Selig Studio. George understood that make up and hair had to be designed to fit each individual and formed his family legacy, beginning with his six sons. Perc, Ern, Mont, Wally, Bud and Frank exceeded the standards set by their father and went on to become the chief make up artists of four major studios, whilst all the time continuing to create groundbreaking work in both beauty and horror.

The brothers worked on many projects, Perc furthering his success by working at Warner Bro's for 27 years, famously creating the chalky, eyebrowless and nearly hairless look on Bette Davies for her role in 'The Private Lives of Elizabeth and Essex' in 1939.

The brothers specialised in various departments of the make up industry, from beauty and celebs to special effects and prosthetic making. Their extensive skills led to the establishment of 'The House of Westmore Salon' which has since been continued by later generations of the family, such as brothers Michael and  Marvin, the sons of Monte Westmore.

George Westmore
http://iv1.lisimg.com/image/3308371/600full-george-westmore.jpg

George's sons; Perc, Mont, Wally & Ern
http://tommenterprises.tripod.com/sitebuildercontent/sitebuilderpictures/.pond/westmorebrothers.jpg.w300h204.jpg

Bette Davis as Queen Elizabeth I
'The private Lives of Elizabeth and Essex'
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Elizabethan Beauty

Name of Portrait: unknown, Artist: Unknown
http://s5hofoe.edu.glogster.com/queen-elizabeth-of-england/

This image, for me, screams Elizabethan Beauty.It is a portrait of Elizabeth when she was young, her hair down showing her innocence. You can clearly see she is royal from the gowns she is dressed in and the pale skin and ginger hair highlight how it could only be Elizabeth I. However the small image in the middle of the painting with a rainbow and boat sailing on the sea, may perhaps have been the artists ideals for the young Queen at the time, that she would be the one to set the country free and bring hope and happiness to England once more.

Me, Myself & I

I am an 18 year old, undergraduate student studying Make Up and Hair design at Southampton Solent University. My only previous experience in make up is through completing two evening courses in London, one on basic make up and the other on special effects / prosthetics. It was here that I confirmed my passion for make up and knew it was what I wished to further my education in.

My knowledge of the Elizabethan era is not very extensive, however I do know a few facts about the time. Firstly society at the time was divided in to strict social classes all of which were told to wear a certain colour in order to distinguish their class. In terms of appearance, it was common for the Queen to have a large forehead on show as it was deemed the higher the forehead the more intelligent.

I'm looking forward to this project as I hope to learn a number of new skills in which I will be able to apply to projects in the future and it will be exciting to design my own look and then watch it be created by someone else. However my main worries for this project are firstly that I will not be able to project the elizabethan era through my image, but also the idea that I have to trust someone else to recreate my image for me.

ILLAMASQUA

As part of our induction week we had a class with Illamasqua where they gave us an introduction into the company and their background in the make up industry. It was amazing to hear how the company has developed over the years and how much they like to involve students and 'up and coming' make up artists in both their company as well as the various activities and competitions they host. 

As part of the class we were also provided with a task to create a look with a limited number of Illamasqua products in 20 minutes in a group of 3, which we would then have to present to the rest of the course at the end. As a group we decided on a look we called 'Regal Wonderland' as a result of the idea that the pale face, red lips and diamond shape bore a resemblance to the Queen in Alice in Wonderland. The defined white lines and bold colours were used to represent strength and control.

The Summer Project

For our summer project we had to produce a mood board that represented our inspirations and interests in the makeup industry and where we would like to be in 5 years time. My mood board depicts how my main aspirations for a career in the industry revolve around TV and film, specifically special effects and prosthetics. In the future I hope to be able to work in various areas of the make up industry whist specialising in prosthetics for films and television. The butterflies in the bottom left hand corner of my mood board represent my aspirations to be free to work wherever I like on whatever projects I'm lucky enough to be presented with.